Questions from an N-scale newbie

[BestSnowman]

I've been working with HO scale a while but got some free N-scale track this weekend and am planning on using this track for bookshelf switching layout.

Since I've only worked with HO so far I have a few questions.

I know this track is Atlas but I don't know what code it is. I need some switches (I only got a bunch of straights, curves, and bumpers) but I don't know what code track I have so far. How would I determine what code it is?

Since all I got was track and I'm planning a switching layout (basing it on the ingelbrook) I need to know how long my longest rolling stock will be coupler to coupler. I'm thinking a 56' Center-flow would be the longest I'd use. Does anyone know how long something like this http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=853 would be from coupler to coupler?

My last question at this point is about power. I have a Bachmann power pack that came wtih an HO set. Can I use this to power an N-scale train or will I need to find something with a little bit lower power output?

Thanks,
Matt Newman

[mhampton]

I've been working with HO scale a while but got some free N-scale track this weekend and am planning on using this track for bookshelf switching layout.

Since I've only worked with HO so far I have a few questions.

I know this track is Atlas but I don't know what code it is. I need some switches (I only got a bunch of straights, curves, and bumpers) but I don't know what code track I have so far. How would I determine what code it is?

Since all I got was track and I'm planning a switching layout (basing it on the ingelbrook) I need to know how long my longest rolling stock will be coupler to coupler. I'm thinking a 56' Center-flow would be the longest I'd use. Does anyone know how long something like this http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=853 would be from coupler to coupler?

My last question at this point is about power. I have a Bachmann power pack that came wtih an HO set. Can I use this to power an N-scale train or will I need to find something with a little bit lower power output?

Thanks,
Matt Newman

The Atlas track you have is probably code 80 if the ties are black.  Their code 55 track has brown ties, I believe.  If it has a built-in roadbed, you're looking at code 65.

A 56' car will be around 4.25" in length.

The power pack you have will be fine for use with N scale.  It won't put out more power than a locomotive will use, but it might have the capability for more.  You might actually want to buy a power pack with a little more horsepower.

[BestSnowman]

Its the black ties (without roadbed) so its must be code 80 then.

I figured the powerpack would work, at least for a start. I just wanted to make sure my first operating session didn't end up with smoke.

Thanks for all the help!

[en4cer]

Here is something you may not have considered when using N scale vs HO scale, N scale rolling stock and engines use couplers attached to the trucks as opposed to HO which has a majority of its couplers attached to the body. With this in mind it will be very critical when chosing length of cars in your layout, you need to match the length of cars with the radius of your turns. longer cars on tight turns will derail easily. Just something I thought you might consider.

[BestSnowman]

I'm actually going with a small Inglebrook switching layout (http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/Inglenook/inglenook-trackplan.html). I've designed it to support a maximum length stock length of 56' foot with most of it being 40' or 50' stock.

I also won't have much for curves so I don't think I'll have too much trouble (at least until I get hooked and convince my wife to let me build another layout in N-scale).

[Rocky]

I painted my code 80 track brown and the big switches a cement color with silver for the throw part. It has a code 55 look after ballasting the track. The only thing I don't like with code 80 is the switches.

[GlennW]

I'm actually going with a small Inglenook switching layout (http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/Inglenook/inglenook-trackplan.html). I've designed it to support a maximum length stock length of 56' foot with most of it being 40' or 50' stock.

I also won't have much for curves so I don't think I'll have too much trouble (at least until I get hooked and convince my wife to let me build another layout in N-scale).

If you use Snap Sectional track, you can figure 1 straight piece to be about 5". You have a choice of Atlas #4 or #6 turnouts. Both will work fine in a slow switching layout. I'd get the manual kind. No need for a powered unit! Taking the time throw the switch for each move will make it seem more realistic. (Dimensions are easy to find in the mfr product catalogs). Atlas may have a free published plan for your Inglenook or TimeSaver switching pike.

It appears your layout would fit on a 1ft x 3ft board. You may want another 3ft for the yard lead. A TimeSaver puzzle may require a 1ft x 4 ft board. The modules could be connected with a 1x1ft corner using 9-11" radius curves.

The December MRC has a great article on using paint pens & markers to color the track. At Hobby Lobby they sell a floquil set of weathering colors for rail that is neat. Don't forget the 40% off coupon!

[BestSnowman]

If you use Snap Sectional track, you can figure 1 straight piece to be about 5". You have a choice of Atlas #4 or #6 turnouts. Both will work fine in a slow switching layout. I'd get the manual kind. No need for a powered unit! Taking the time throw the switch for each move will make it seem more realistic. (Dimensions are easy to find in the mfr product catalogs). Atlas may have a free published plan for your Inglenook or TimeSaver switching pike.

It appears your layout would fit on a 1ft x 3ft board. You may want another 3ft for the yard lead. A TimeSaver puzzle may require a 1ft x 4 ft board. The modules could be connected with a 1x1ft corner using 9-11" radius curves.

The December MRC has a great article on using paint pens & markers to color the track. At Hobby Lobby they sell a floquil set of weathering colors for rail that is neat. Don't forget the 40% off coupon!

I was planning to go with #4's to keep the size down since I'm going to be using smaller stock and a small Plymouth WDT. I briefly thought about using powered switches but wiring it for just two switches seemed ridiculous.

You actually gave me an idea on the construction though, rather than having one long base have the lead track be on a seperate section so it can be stored more compactly (and gain some wife approval points)