Projects

[BestSnowman]

It has been running really good since I got it broke in and got a decoder installed. Its not a quite runner by any standard, but it'll crawl along smoothly and rocket around the track and an incredibly high speed.

[jonathan]

Now that I've practiced isolating motors on my old Athearns (definitely improved response at slow speeds and virtually removed light flicker), It was time to do a modern GP40-2.  Didn't want to ruin my newer locos.

One things no one has mentioned was how hard it was to solder to the truck gear box.  Didn't matter how much flux I used.  Didn't matter if the loco was from 1966 or one year ago. It took forever for the solder to join the wire to the side of the box. I was sure I was going to melt something vital.

This pic was taken just before I soldered the lights and positioned the wires.


Here you can see where the wires joins the gear box just behind the wheel.  There is just enough clearance!  I used telephone wire I found in the trash in our comm room at work (free is good).  Granted it was a little stiff, but the trucks turn freely and it's easy to position the wire out of the way of moving parts.


The bottom wires are soldered to the motor clip end.  I cleaned the commutator, too.


The old connector clip makes excellent light stands, using krazyglue and pressure from the shell to hold it in place


She runs like a scalded dog!

Pulled out my SD38 and SD70, and they were already isolated (DCC ready).  I'm one step closer to the dark side (insert mechanical breathing here).  OK because of all the great adivce on this forum, I now have OCD.  Thanks,

Jonathan

[rich1998]

the wires in a old mouse cable are the right size and quite flexible remember how flexible a mouse cable is. Maybe an old keyboard might have small flex cable. i find sacrificial lambs every so often. 
I use a 40 watt soldering iron with a clean tip and rosin flux. i clean the soldering spot with a scratch brush  like the below. preparation is very important.
The wire you use is ok but does not like a lot of flexing if it is the solid type.

http://www.micromark.com/SCRATCH-BRUSH,8058.html
lex

[jonathan]

Lexon,

Good tip, thanks.  I used a jewlers screwdriver and sandpaper to prep the spot.

I realize stranded wire is probably better. However, it seemed that the trucks swivel very little in reality, especially on 24" radius.  Oh well, if I break a wire, at least I know how to fix it.  TTFN.  Off to dumpster dive for some stranded wire!

Regards,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

another good source for wire are old rj45 cables.  they contain 4 twisted pairs of stranded wire. very flexible and easily untwisted. 4 pairs are actually 8 color coded wires. I used a cable to make wires for my atlas switch machines.

[rich1998]

one thing to remember when using solid wire, a nick from a knife, razor blade will create a weak point at that nick. flexing at that nick and the wire can break easier than any other part of the wire. i use a wire stripper form micro mark that strips 22 to 30 wire with no nicks. not so bad if you nick stranded wire.
for ho scale 28 or 30 stranded wire is just fine in motors and decoders.. even magnet wire is good but is solid. you have to use soldering iron tip to strip coating.
i get a lot of wire from scrap stuff. i guess think in the dumpster. think recycle. old small motors, relays. I just got about 3 feet of nice small wire from an old keyboard.
colors of wire could be a problem. you might not always find the colors you want.
i use a caliper to measure small sizes. mine is a 6 inch digital from micro mark.
harbor freight has cheap calipers which are very good for ho trains. just takes a little practice. for many years I used a cheap dial caliper. it has a dial with a pointer.
the thing is to have fun. good luck to all.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?catPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FUserSearch%253Dcaliper&currentPage=2&lastPage=2&isNext=false&isPrevious=false&category=&attributeValue=&attributeName=&requestedPage=1&resultsPerPage=10&resultsPerPageBottom=0

lex

almost forgot, i use shrink tube from radio shack to insulate wire junctions. a bare wire to a decoder touches something it sholud not and smoke. think spend more money.

[BestSnowman]

Hey Jonathan how well does krazy glue make that new lightstand stick? The SDP40 I've been working on the light stand keeps coming off and I haven't found a good way to re-secure it.

Since I can't easily get to the truck sideframe for so I have been going off of the light post which gets frustrating when it won't stay put.

PD, I hadn't thought of using old ethernet cables for wiring. I do have a surplus of ethernet cables right now...

[jonathan]

BestSnowMan,

Krazyglue holds the light bracket in place well enough to get the shell on.  I actually rely upon the pressure from the shell on the bracket.  ACC didn't hold at all of course, but the krazyglue keeps it steady.  Notice in the photo that the bracket slips in behind the coupler box.  That's a holding point.  When the loco shell is put back on, the bottom of the shell sits on the light bracket shelf, another holding point.

Hope that helps

Regards,

Jonathan

[pdlethbridge]

When I have done Athearn units for DCC, I've never had to solder a wire to the trucks other side. I polish up the contact point between the frame and truck, drill and tap a 2-56 hole in a good spot on the frame, and attach the wire to that.
Remember the bottom motor clip touches the frame and that's how it gets current from the wheels for DC. It would need to be isolated from the frame for DCC, ie, removing the barbs and putting tape under the motor to isolate it.

[jonathan]

I did the electrical tape part.  If you connect a wire onto the frame, is the motor really isolated?

Regards,

Jonathan

[BestSnowman]

I did the electrical tape part.  If you connect a wire onto the frame, is the motor really isolated?

Yes it is. When the motor is connected directly to the frame you can't install a decoder because you need the motor to connect to the decoder and the decoder to the rails. Running a wire from the motor to the frame is the same as a wire from the motor to the truck since athearn transfer the power through the frame. Since it is going through a wire you can splice in a decoder between the frame and motor.

[jonathan]

OK, let me see if I get this.  It does not matter if the current comes through the frame... so long as the decoder gets the current BEFORE it gets to the motor (makes sense now of course).  So all the fancy rewiring I just did, will have to be done again if I ever decide to add decoders.  Don't misunderstand my confusion. I just made a bunch of mediocre runners into much smoother runners, which I really appreciate (admittedly, it was fun).  And I am now intimate with the inner workings of an HO diesel locomotive.

It just makes the dark side seem hard unless one only upgrades locos that are DCC ready in the first place.

Regards,

Jonathan

[BestSnowman]

Not neccesarily, you can just splice in the decoder between the motor and the pickup.

[rich1998]

Not neccesarily, you can just splice in the decoder between the motor and the pickup.

add to that statement, "if the one motor terminal" is isolated from the metal frame. some people have done exactly as your statement and smoked the decoder. never assume. you can always try your way and let us know
lex

[pdlethbridge]

a great site to check your work and other stuff is this
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/