Brass loco runs in wrong direction

[Paul M.]

Hi guys,
I recently bought my first brass locomotive, an older Alco Products RS-2. It's detailing is awesome, and runs okay (for a brass locomotive, from what I've heard.)

My problem is this: When it runs, it moves in the opposite direction that every other locomotive of mine does.  This means that I can't lash it up with another locomotive, and if running alone it would complicate operations a bit.
I know this was a common problem before NMRA standards - does this mean this brass loco is significantly older than I thought?
Is there a simple way to fix this problem?

Thanks,
-Paul

[RAM]

My guess is that you are running in DC mode.  The first thing that I would do would be to check and see if the trucks are turned the wrong way. 

[Paul M.]

Yeah, it's DC, not DCC. Sorry I forgot to mention that - I'll go turn the trucks around, and see if that makes any difference.

UPDATE: After examining the trucks, I realized that they're geared in such a way that it would be impossible to reverse them. Thanks for the idea, anyway.

Anyone else have a theory?

[Jim Banner]

I don't think your RS-2 is all that old - after all, they weren't introduced into the real world until 1946.  Hmmm.  I guess that is old.  Reversing direction is usually easy - just reverse the wires to the motor.  If this is not possible because of one brush being connected to the frame which is then connected to the wheels on one side, then your only options are to reverse the motor end for end (if it is a dual shaft motor) or reverse the magnets (if it is an open frame motor) or remotor with a can motor (helps improve running too.)  If you remotor, consider adding a flywheel as well.

Jim

[pdlethbridge]

can the wheels be taken out of the trucks and turned around? Usuaslly there is a plate on the bottom that is screwed in.

[Nigel]

Yeah, it's DC, not DCC. Sorry I forgot to mention that - I'll go turn the trucks around, and see if that makes any difference.

UPDATE: After examining the trucks, I realized that they're geared in such a way that it would be impossible to reverse them. Thanks for the idea, anyway.

Anyone else have a theory?

Hi Paul;

It is not clear from your post if you tried to turn each truck around, or swap them front and rear; and turn them around.

On an older open frame motor, you do not want to just pull the magnet out, it will loose a significant amount of magnetism, and will continue to get worse with time.

Personally; I'd get a Proto RS2, and put your brass model on the Proto chassis.

[Jim Banner]

Personally; I'd get a Proto RS2, and put your brass model on the Proto chassis.

That's the best idea yet - good looks and smooth operation.  And probably cheaper than a complete mechanical rebuild.  If you go this route, save the old chassis in case you ever want to sell the locomotive and a potential buyer insists that it has to be all original.

Nigel is right about the magnets losing their magnetism if you just take them out of the motor and put them back in.  I should have mentioned that you need to put a keeper on each side of the magnet before you take it out, then take them off after you have the magnet clamped back in place.  All you need for keepers are pieces of mild steel the length and width of the magnet and about 1/8" thick.  An alternative is to replace the old Alnico magnet with a stack of modern neodymium magnets.  To make the stack the right height, you can cut a piece of mild steel the right size and thickness and slip it into the middle of the stack.  Neodymium magnets are the strongest available permanent magnets and will not lose their magnetism outside of a motor.  The stronger magnetic field will make the motor stronger too.

Jim

[Nigel]

If you choose to go the Neodymium magnet route, you do not need much magnet, and you do need quite a large thickness of steel spacer - use soft steel, low carbon 1006 or less carbon.  Do NOT try to cut the Neodymium magnet - it becomes a fire hazard, and the magnet will oxidize and fall apart in months (less than 5 years).  Use a nickel plated magnet.

I have purchased magnets from this company for work several times, and they have delivered as advertised:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B662
the B662 is probably a good match for an HO scale open frame motor application. 

Another subject; evidently this was a common occurrence.  In the September 1968 issue of Model Railroader, pg 12-13, they reviewed a Hallmark HO GP7:  "Our sample came wired incorrectly considering the motor magnet polarization.  A model should travel forward when the right hand rail , as you look ahead, is positive in polarity.  This is easy to correct, merely interchange the motor brush connecting wires." 

[Bill Baker]

Wow, what a trip down memory lane.  Nigel, do you realize I actually had that issue?  I had all MR issues from about the middle of 1965 through 1968 before I went in the Navy.  My parents thought I had out grown trains and threw them all away.

Bill

[Paul M.]

Thanks, everyone, for all your help. I have an old Atlas / Kato RS3 underframe that I will try to fit to the shell. If not, I'll probably rewire the motor, as described.

Thanks again!