Question on laying track down on things other than the corkbed.

[Jim Banner]

There are lots of soldering articles on the web.  The link below will take you to one of them.  After reading up on soldering, the three most important things you can do are practice, practice, practice.

http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/TechNotes/soldering.html

Jim

[Robertj668]

Jim
Thanks again. I think Soldering is something I can master.  But first I need to get a good one. 
When I have time I want to take a picture of my layout in progress so I can ask more questions later. I may make it a new post, not sure though.
I forget if I asked this before but I would love to see your setup if you have any pictures.

I just feel bad about asking so many questions on here.  But I think of it this way.  I learn a great deal from other peoples posts, so I am guessing other people are learning from mine as well. Now especially since recently I have hurt my neck and need Surgery on Wednesday and all I can do all day is sit and type.
Robert

[jonathan]

Robert,

Don't feel bad about asking too many questions.  There's no such thing.  I have learned a great deal by just reading ALL the posts on this forum.  Sometimes the most obscure topic, can be just the answer someone else is looking for.  I remember getting my first DCC Spectrum steamer.  It came with a small bag of black stuff, with not comment in the instructions.  Found out that it's coal to add some realism to the tender, if one wishes.  Read the answer on this forum, because someone else had enough gumption to ask.

Please, DO take pictures of your layout, no matter what stage it's in.  I for one love looking at layouts on the net.  I wish I had documented my layout from the beginning.  Wounded Bear has provided excellent insight and photos on planning and starting a layout.

If you need help with photobucket.com, please ask. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[mabloodhound]

Robert,
This is a link for the Homabed already cut.   Many modelers use this product.
http://www.homabed.com/site/890800/page/45029
Most use an adhesive caulk to hold it down and then also use the caulk to hold the track.

[Robertj668]

Jonathan
Thanks for kind words. I do like to read most of the posts too. Either I can help someone or I can learn something. My son and i are going clean up the table today and make it picture Worthy.

Malbloodhound
That is a great website. I had put finding a good website for this stuff on my to search list. 

Robert

[Robertj668]

Well its 2 months later (Neck Surgery kept me a little quit) and I still have the Bachmann EZ-Track. But a new question has come to mind.  The Bachmann EZ-Track is code 100 right?  I am only having problems with the switches can a I use another manufactures switch?  I know I would have to add roadbed.  And I thought that to make it match I was going to put ballast on all of the track. 

Now the next question. 

If go for the complete redo shall I go will 100 or 83?  I am leaning towards 100 as I understand from my previous questions that the older Rivarossi Engines do not run well on the 83.

I plan on using Atlas.  I am not good with flex track so I am probably not going to use it that much.

Robert

PS I am excited to start my new "Two Story Farm House" But that will be in another post.

[jonathan]

Robert,

What follows is strictly an opinion, so take it with a grain of salt.

This is my first layout.  I couldn't decide on code, either.  So, half of my layout is code 83 and the other half is code 100.  Many will say the the code 83 is more realistic looking.  I'm no rivet counter.  I notice that once the track is weathered and ballasted, they both look about the same side-by-side.

That's code 100 on your left and code 83 on your right.  Code 83 ties are spaced closer together, and that may give the illusion of greater distance travelled.  Not sure I buy that.

OK, I also "feel" that the trains run just ever so slightly better on the code 100.  If I ventured a guess, it would have to do something with the thickness of the rail and electrical resistance... all things that would give me a PD headache if I thought about it too much.

Wish I had a better photo of track to show you, but once the trains are up an running, who really looks at track any more.  Something else to ponder.  Not a sermon, just an observation... worth about two cents.

Regards,

Jonathan

PS.  Don't be afraid of flex track.  I used sectional track on turnarounds and flex track everywhere else.  Worked great.

[jward]

after using code 100 for most of my model railroading career, i've switched to code 83 on the latest layout. my dad laid his entire railroad with code 83 on the main and code 70 for yards and sidings. here are our experiences.....

you will have absolutely no problem attributable to rail size if you stick to rolling stock with wheel flanges conforming to nmra specs (rp25) which is the industry standard now. i was surprised, even the thomas locomotives and cars have rp25 wheels.

older cars with deep flanges are going to have more derailment problems regardless of rail size. if you have them, conversion to rp25 wheels is relatively easy. if you are converting your rolling stock to metal wheels you'll be replacing the older wheels anyway. invest in a truck tuner, as you may need to ream out a few journals to get the new wheels rolling freely.

from our experience, any locomotive which does not have rp25 wheels is going to be a questionable runner at best, often they will also have rubber traction tires, another questionable practice from the "good ole days"..... locomotives have come light years in the past 30 years or so, and i see no reason other than sentimental value to acquire anything that doesn't have rp25 wheels.

[Johnson Bar Jeff]

My track is laid directly on homasote. Works great

When I was a very small boy--we're talking more than 40 years ago now--my grandfather built me a train table with the entire table top covered with Homasote. He laid the track directly on the Homasote.

About 15 years ago I tried an experiment in building a small layout. I lived in a small apartment, so it was hardly larger than your typical train set oval of track, but I covered the entire table top in cork sheeting. It worked fine, but it didn't deaden noise as much as I had hoped. This would probably not be practical for a large layout. When I moved I sold the layout really cheap to a coworker for his kids.

[Robertj668]

Jonathn
Great example of the difference. Code 83 does look better! Which one gets more derailments? How do you control your switches? I would like to run mine by DCC.

jward
Most of my cars have been converted to my 33" intermountain wheels. I need to find out what a truck tuner is.

Johnson Bar Jeff
In Texas I was unable to find Homasote so far But I will keep looking.

[jonathan]

Robert,

Any derailments I USE to get were caused by incorrect coupler and/or trip pin height.  Some trip pins would catch the rail coming across a turnout.  I have since gotten a kadee height gage, adjusted my pins and couplers, and derailments are a thing of the past.

I am DC, so my turnouts are controlled by under-the-track switch machines.  When I can afford it, I take out the old Atlas machines and replace them with Tortoise machines.  My large passenger yard (8 tracks) uses a mechanical push/pull stiff wire set up (under the benchwork). I don't use them much, and couldn't justify the expense of all those switch machines. 

And I have to admit, the Atlas custom code 83 #6 turnouts work much better than the code 100 turnouts.  They cost more, but make a huge difference in smooth operations.

Jonathan

[Robertj668]

Jonathan
Wow the code 83 #6 switches worked better? Now I am more confused on which way to go.
We fixed the couplers.  However I should check again.
I really do not want to switch from the EZ Track.  I am kinda at the end on the line.  I cringe every time the steam engines run over the switches. Will it derail, will it make it? 

The diesels run great. But I do not want to have everything set up and glued down and then switch.

Robert

[jonathan]

Robert,

I do not use EZ track turnouts.  I have heard they are unreliable.  However, I have used some EZ track connected to Atlas code 100 turnouts.   EZ track lines up nicely with cork roadbed and code 100 track. I recommend the #6 turnouts, because they are easier on the locomotive--ESPECIALLY the steamers.  The pilot trucks on my connies and 4-4-0s do not like #4 turnouts.   They will work, but running results can be iffy.  In this case the more expensive turnouts are worth the cost.  My code 83 turnouts are strictly used with my code 83 track.  You can mix codes, but it's easier not to.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Jhanecker2]

To Robertj668 :  A truck tuner is the device used to ream out the inside surface of trucks where you install your wheelsets so that they run smoothly with minimum friction . Check in the Walthers reference catalog to find a supplier   or check  Micro-Mark website to see if they carry them.   John II.

[Robertj668]

John
Thanks for telling what what a truck tuner is I need one!
Jonathan
Is your current layout EZ track and ATLAS Or I think it was a previous one. Did it look good? Did you cover the EZ Track with ballast?

Robert