Built my first kit rolling stock

[jonathan]

I would rather build a kit than buy RTR any day of the week.  The supply is down because most folks want RTR these days.

I have built Athearn, Accurail, MDC Roundhouse and recently, LBF.  Never heard of LBF before. They're out of Oregon.  It was a 52' box car kit that came with metal wheelsets.  It was free rolling without an upgrade!

Haven't tried a laser cut wood kit, yet, but anxious to try one.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Michigan Railfan]

So, Athearn Blue Box kits, do they involve glue? I'm just trying to clear that up because I'm hoping to go to my not-so local hobby shop, and they have tons of Athearn kits, and I'm not real good with glue, I usually overglue or spill it somehow.

[simkon]

Most of them require a minimal amount of glue for a few detail parts.
-Like my 86' flat cars required the most glue out of any kit I have built. But like Jonathan said if you have to glue something, it is usually only a brake wheel or maybe one other thing. But there may be a few exceptions with unique/unusual cars.

[jonathan]

All the rolling stock kits I have built required no glue at all.  Just a couple of small tools.  Belay my last.  Had to glue the brakewheel on one of the kits.  Working on a  loco kit (another post), that required some skillful gluing of handrails.

Jonathan

[Michigan Railfan]

Thanks guys. I'm not into all the little details, but I'll still put on a brakewheel. So, what are the tools, just like, screwdrivers, and everyday tools, or special model railroad tool?

[lmackattack]

Athearn blue box kits are about the cheapest kits you will find. they are simple and easy to build you can use glue for the under car air brake parts or just press fit the parts.

the only thing the athern cars need a little help with is the coupler pockets. I like to install kadee couplers put the metal tab on the pocket then pinch the tab so it holds better. i then put a dab of CA glue on the pocket sides to help keep the metal tab from popping off..

I liked the roundhouse kits as they were also in the same price range.. they sometimes had issues with the metal screw holes.

All the RTR stuff is not my cup of tea.. Its kinda like building a plastic model car and buying a dicast car.

one you can build to make it to your specs a liking the other is just out of the box and on the rails no pride with it and it cost you more...

[Chris350]

Thanks guys. I'm not into all the little details, but I'll still put on a brakewheel. So, what are the tools, just like, screwdrivers, and everyday tools, or special model railroad tool?

Usually a straight screw driver, an x-acto knife, and model cement are all you will need.  I like the liquid cement with the brush in the bottle as it's easier to apply cleanly.  I also use a small amount of Cyano Acrylate (CA) glue to hold the weight in place.  Blue Box really are the most straight forward kits around followed by the old MDC Roundhouse kits.  There are still loads of both available on EBay.

[Woody Elmore]

Athearn kits, and other similar kits by MDC, used to be called "shake the box" kits because of the ease of assembly. I don't recall ever having to use glue on an athearn kit. The brake wheel was always a force fit. a small screwdriver and maybe an emery board to remove flash was all that was needed.

[CNE Runner]

Most of the Athearn kits I have built require some gluing on the roof walk, door tracks, and the (already mentioned) brake wheel. I always use liquid cement designed for styrene and apply the glue from the inside of the car body after inserting the part. It is a very good idea to put a little CA on the weight as I have obtained more than one car wherein the weight shifted or is loose in the car body.

Athearn kits are extremely easy to build and one can fill a roster in no time. I strongly suggest you convert the plastic wheel sets to metal (I happen to like Kadee; but the choice is yours). Another suggestion is to obtain some car weights as I have yet to find an Athearn car that is correctly weighted. The NMRA website has a table to guide you in determining suggested car weight...trust me, it makes all the difference in the world.

Ray

[Michigan Railfan]

I've already been planning on converting my plastic wheels to metal. So, what are some good quality, decent priced metal wheels. Like, what manufacturer makes them. I was just wondering becasuse I know they roll better. So, if I were to upgrade my wheels, would I have to get new trucks? I'm just wondering.

[BestSnowman]

Most of the Athearn kits I have built require some gluing on the roof walk, door tracks, and the (already mentioned) brake wheel. I always use liquid cement designed for styrene and apply the glue from the inside of the car body after inserting the part. It is a very good idea to put a little CA on the weight as I have obtained more than one car wherein the weight shifted or is loose in the car body.

Athearn kits are extremely easy to build and one can fill a roster in no time. I strongly suggest you convert the plastic wheel sets to metal (I happen to like Kadee; but the choice is yours). Another suggestion is to obtain some car weights as I have yet to find an Athearn car that is correctly weighted. The NMRA website has a table to guide you in determining suggested car weight...trust me, it makes all the difference in the world.

Ray

The kit I got came with metal wheels, must be a newer kit.

[simkon]

I think he meant all metal. Yours are probably a combination of metal and plastic.

[Chris350]

I've already been planning on converting my plastic wheels to metal. So, what are some good quality, decent priced metal wheels. Like, what manufacturer makes them. I was just wondering becasuse I know they roll better. So, if I were to upgrade my wheels, would I have to get new trucks? I'm just wondering.

I've been using Intermountain metal wheels I believe.  They are in an unmarked plastic bags so I'm working from memory... (without a net as usual....)  As far as trucks go, it's optional to change them.  If go with the stock truck, you just spread the plastic truck, pop out the stock wheel and axle, insert new ones and away you go.  Some folks recommend enlarging the hole that the axel end sit in.  There is a tool for it available from Micromark.  I pays to note which side of the axel is insulated, and make a practice of putting them on the same side, although (someone correct me if I'm wrong) I don't know if this really matters.  There is usually a plastic insert on the insulated side. 

[Michigan Railfan]

So, Chris, about the insulated side on a truck, that means that theres no hole on that side?

[simkon]

The insulated side is non-conducting, the holes can be enlarged to ensure they roll freely and unobstructed, for better operation. There are holes on both sides of the trucks, and it doesn't matter which way you put the wheels in as long as one side is insulated, unless your running lighted passenger cars or other cars that have wipers to get power from the rails.