E-Z Track Trouble.

[Santa Fe buff]

Yesterday:
My friend, Ryan, brought over his GS4 Daylight No. 4446 to run. I hooked up my Steel Alloy E-Z Track after reassembling it on the floor after adding on 2" straights and on 90 degree crossover. The locomotive sputtered and jolted dangerously. Even stopping dead on certain spots. He ran it on his track and the locomotive preformed beautifully. After looking closely at all of my E-Z track, I noticed there were dark black blotches all over the rail tops. (Obviously electrically made). With MTH Proto-Smoke smothered on the rails (Due to a first-timer's reload of Proto-Smoke. <me>) by his GS4.

Today:
I got a smaller piece of cork and rubbed on the track's tops. Surprisingly, the Proto-Smoke seemed to act like some sort of cleanser; it removed the stains and made it look like liquid while I was removing the Proto-Smoke! I took out my U20B and ran it. Unfortunately, it encountered the same problems, and even worse, of what the GS4 took on. I looked back at the track; already blackened after only 3 times around the small loop. Cleaning the rails with cork is doing absolutely nothing, while my connections with my joints, power cables, and track-wheel are in top condition. (I assume).

I need suggestions/tips/advice on what to do. I'll try anything, but don't think too outside of the box! I really just want to run trains, but if this won't stop, that will be impossible.

Josh

[Jim Banner]

It sounds like the oil is the culprit.  Try cleaning your rails and wheels with isopropyl alcohol.  Cleaning just the rails isn't enough if the wheels have picked up oil.  And cleaning just the wheels isn't enough if there is still a trace of oil on the rails.  A Q-Tip will help clean the tender wheels and any other un-powered wheels that have picked up oil.  For powered wheels, Hunt's method works well.

[Santa Fe buff]

Sorry, but how do I clean powered wheels?
EDIT: Never mind, I didn't know what you meant by "Hunt's method". I found his user name, and look at his posts, I saw it.

Josh

[Paul M.]

For any who haven't searched for Hunt's method, here it is:

READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING.

The following is suggested for HO, N and On30 scales.

(all following text by Hunt, and not myself)
** Lubrication **
Use only plastic compatible lubricants and cleaners. Keep Isopropyl Alcohol and electronic cleaner off all painted surfaces and decals. Sound equipped --- Prevent lubricant and cleaner from getting on the speaker.

* Locomotive *
Any locomotive that has been in storage should be properly cleaned and lubricated before it is run. Start by using a quick drying formula electronic cleaner in spray can or Isopropyl Alcohol to cleanse the gears, trucks and all the other lube points (parts that rub together). Next use proper lubricants and apply an amount (drop) the size of the head of a standard straight pin at each lube point. Do not place any lubricant on a belt.
  1)   White Grease with PTFE or Teflon on all plastic to plastic or plastic to metal gears -- However, on metal to metal gears use heavy gear oil instead of white grease
  2)   Heavy oil on the axles and gearbox bearings
  3)   Light oil on motor bearings, side rods and any place else parts rub together

Operating the locomotive will distribute the lubricant. More lubricant is NOT better. Too much lubricant on or around motor may damage it. Proper lubricant examples: E-Z Lube, Labelle, Hob-E-Lube and Aero-Car.

For locomotives not removed from storage, you can skip the electronic cleaner and lubricate about every 15-hours of run time or as performance indicates lubrication is needed.

* Rolling stock *
It is uncommon the trucks on a Tender, any freight or passenger car will need lubrication. If a need does occur, then use only a dry graphite lubricant -- no oils or grease. If needed, use the dry graphite lubricant in the coupler box.


** Cleaning **
There are different schools of thought about cleaning wheels. The following is one of them.

* Locomotive wheels *
Cut a Handi Wipes® reusable disposable cloth or the like in four inch strips, do not use kitchen paper towel. Place one strip across the track and soak the cloth part over each rail with Isopropyl Alcohol. Place one truck of a diesel locomotive on the wet cloth and the other truck on the track. Hold the locomotive with one hand and slowly turn up the power pack throttle to spin the wheels. When these wheels are clean, turn the locomotive around and do the other truck. Spin as many wheels as you can at a time for steam locomotive. If wheels very dirty use Goo Gone (not recommended for use on rubber traction tires) all-purpose cleaner in place of the alcohol and gauze pad in place of the cloth. After wheels are clean then spin wheels on dry clean cloth to remove the cleaner residue. If you are using DCC make an extra effort to remove the cleaner residue. Finish with very, very small amount of conductive contact lube on each metal driving wheel tread and electric pick-up rub points.

* Tender electrical pickup wheels *
See Locomotive wheels above but use Q-tip in place of Handi Wipes®and hand turn each wheel.

[Santa Fe buff]

Please Excuse my BUMP.

I have another question. How do I clean the rails using Isopropyl Alcohol? Also, can 70% Isopropyl Alcohol work too?

Josh

[Hunt]

Track with nickel silver rails can be kept in usable condition by wiping the track with a Handi Wipes damp with Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or higher %) before and after each running session. Place the cloth tight around a flat soft wood block, large rubber eraser, or comparable item and rub the railheads until clean. Wipe the alcohol residue off the railheads with clean cloth.


Some people find the frequency of cleaning track before and after a running session too much trouble and prefer to a vigorous cleaning when running performance of a locomotive indicates it is time. If so, it may require a different cleaning agent, other than Isopropyl Alcohol, especially if running plastic wheelsets. 

[Santa Fe buff]

Would this cross over to Steel Alloy track too? Because I need to clean the oil off of Steel Alloy. Also, can you offer some other different agents to use for plastic wheel sets? Most of my stock is has plastic wheel sets.

Josh

[Hunt]

** Clean Track **

Isopropyl Alcohol with lots of elbow grease may be OK to remove oil and a very thin build-up of the "stuff" from the plastic wheels. Second choice if the alcohol does not do the job is to use Goo-Gone.

Isopropyl Alcohol or Goo-Gone will not remove the oxidation of the steel alloy rail. When oxidation of the rail is the problem, do not clean the steel alloy rail with a heavy abrasive product because it can do as much harm as good. Use Flitz Metal Polish and Fiberglass Cleaner or MAAS Polishing Creme to clean the track railheads. Wipe the polish residue off the railheads with clean cloth. Do not use the polish on plactic wheels.

As soon as you can, change to metal wheels.



Last choice I recommended lacquer thinner for limited use model railroad cleaning because of its  hazard.  Lacquer thinner works better than other solvents to remove the difficult types of contamination that can be found on model railroad track railheads and equipment wheel treads. (Do not use on polystyrene wheels)

[Santa Fe buff]

Ah, okay. Thank you for your response. Do note I'm printing out your instructions for later notice. After all, I don't think the screen can be pulled all the way upstairs...

I do think I'll stay away from lacquer thinner... After all, I have quite a range of different wheels. Some from the 1970s (Metal, and cracked), all the way to the 21st century. Also, I have absolutely no idea what type they are, so I'd rather not deal with that stuff. (Oh, we have young ones in the house too), and I wouldn't want it to possibly come in the reach. But I do keep my room vented and locked up at all times... I don't think I'll take that chance.

Also, I do have them in mind. (Metal wheels). Although, I'll have to buy them slowly. Money doesn't seem to come in a steady flow for a 12-year-old, but trust me, I will invest in those. They sound realistic and "skim" across the rails...

Thanks for all the helpful replies and responses.

Josh