Drag brakes and Kadee couplers

[genetk44]

Dave2744 and I started to accidentally side-track the the 44-Tonner split-axle thread into a discussion about drag brakes and how they could improve the coupling action of Kadee couplers. So we decided that we would start a new thread here to not completely derail the original discussion.

Dave...I have been using the Kadee whisker couplers for a couple of years now, especially the " scale" ones, #s 156 and 158 in particuler. And yes at times they do seem to not want to couple, usually from not being centred. I sometimes think that the whisker springs just aren't strong enough, at other times it seems like the original coupler box just isnt big enough for the Kadee coupler. So I usually end up filing both the coupler box lid,the coupler shank and adding some graphite lube to try and get things moving...sometimes it works and sometimes it only works up to a point...can be frustrating.

Plus...any chance of a pic of one of your drag brake installs on a car??

Cheers
Gene

[DAVE2744]

Gene-I noticed the "scale" coupler, aside from the centering issue, sometimes does not let the face of the
moveable piece to slide along the face of the approaching coupler.  I have tried "burnishing" the surface
with hardwood stick.  Seemed to help somewhat.

I decided to stick with the "standard" size knuckles. more forgiving on the centering issue, and height, and
just about everything else.  Like I said, I'm not real picky about close to scale issues.

I noticed that where the metal has been "upset" to attach the whisker wire to the shank there is sometimes
an increase in the thickness of the shank at that point.  Check yours with a mic or vernier. This might be the
cause of the whisker springs not being able to move the shank into centered position.  I also noticed that
sometimes the whisker does not touch both sides of the draft box at the same time. This means the shank
can wander on its own slightly, either side of the desired centerline postion.  That is some difficult wire to
try to bend, without screwing up the whole works!  Been there, done that.  This usually happened when I tried
to use a non Kadee draft box, that I thought was OK quality wise.  Should have just gone with the K box. I do
not use any other draft box now except Kadee.

Another adjustment I have been experimenting with concerns the centerline of the draft box vs. the center-
line of the car frame.  I find that if there is some offset to the two CLs  the couplers are much more forgiving
in issues of mating, locking, and performance of coupling on a curve, ( within limits of course ).I'm only using
.015" or so offset, toward the trip pin side.  That's ,030" when two cars meet. Only done this to a few cars
that seemed to be having difficulties. 

Of course, slop in the kingpin hole, loose axles in the truck frame,
loose gage on the track, poor wheel geometry, can all contribute to the problem.

I would do pics, but I need step-by-step, ( for dummies ), instructions on getting
pics onto forum.  After I figure how to get pics from phone to computer!  Another
new thread?

[Len]

Step-by-step info on posting pics can be found here: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30172.msg222403.html#msg222403

Len

[genetk44]

Dave

The most convenient and fastest way to load pics would be to just use the "Attach..choose file" button in the lower part of the reply screen...unfortunately it seems to always come up with some sort of error and the board administration hasn't fixed it. So your best bet is using the Photobucket route that has been mentioned by Len.  Its a multi-step process but is relativly easy even if Photobucket has gone downhill and gotten kind of buggy in recent years.  It would be helpful to know what kind of phone and computer you are using also.

Cheers
Gene

[DAVE2744]

Gene - Took photos the other day with camera.  I can work with those files easily.   

            As soon as I get a chance to read the instructions Len kindly gave me the link to,
            I will attempt to post pics. 

            The pics show step by step, total of 5 bends to wire form, plus installation on truck. 

Len - Thankyou for the link to pics upload instructions.  Will read as soon as I get time.

[genetk44]

Dave..sounds great.

[DAVE2744]

Here goes nothin'







http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/ad142/dave2744/Drag%20Brake/DSCN0842_zpswrsoeogy.jpg

http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/ad142/dave2744/Drag%20Brake/DSCN0838_zps5nrfdti9.jpg

The wireform installed on the truck is much thicker, I thought it would show up better in pics. Also, I
only painted the wire white for the same reason. Bare wire cannot be seen on car on layout.

I have installed these things on topside of truck, and on bottom side. Works same.

Cautions:  Keep insulated side of metal wheeled trucks in same orientation in frames. Non-insulated
side should go where the square loop ends of the wires are. Out of 100+ installs, only had 3 shorts
show up, and not right away. Only after cars had been in use awhile did wire touch wheel & short. Found
axle orientation was opposite of each other, 1 axle one way, other axle flipped around.

It's 2330 here, I'm turning in for the night. 0530 rolls around quickly. And my gal needs some TLC.

I'm outta here!

[genetk44]

Wow...impressive. Those look like they would really slow things down...and alot of work to make!! Does friction hold them on or do you glue them on??

[DAVE2744]

Gene- Less than 1 minute to make one spring.  1 to 2 minutes to fine tune it on a car.  I use a piece of track
         mounted on hardwood base for testing.  Tilted to 1 percent grade, car should not roll on its own. Tilted to
         2 percent grade, car should start and roll on its own.  No push required. This keeps all cars similar. My cars
         are all at or slightly above NMRA weight guides.  Note I use only one truck per car with the spring.

         Car Weight:  Cars that are too light, relatively speaking, will have trouble assuring a good couple.
                              This can happen with any brand coupler.

         No glue required.  The tension of the V shape and the slight twist at the ends of the wire "legs"
         keeps them in place.  Mounted on top or bottom makes no difference.  Never had one come off yet.
         In fact, I have to use tweezers to remove them, one axle at a time.

Len - Thanks again for the lead on posting pics.  Was really easy after first one.  I noticed a recent post
        that suggested only 1 pic be attached with originating posting.  Then I should reply to that posting and
        include the remaining pics.  What would be the reason for doing this? Thanks, Dave

[genetk44]

Thanks Dave👍👍👍

[Trainman203]

I'm missing something somewhere.  What's the reason for doing all
Of this to a set of trucks.  I'm not a regular reader do
I might have missed it in some previous discussion.

[Trainman203]

Ok I saw it just now.  Overcoming free wheeling trucks to allow Kadee scale couplers to mate smoothly.  I've never had a problem with mine.  I'd try weighting the cars first.  After that, making the trucks drag.  I've seen people do this before by cutting coupler knuckle coil springs in half  , then putting one of them into one journal box per car.  A lot less work.

How many modeler remember the days BEFORE free wheeling slippery plastic trucks?  When trucks used to have metal side frames with actual coil springs?  No free wheeling problem there, baby!  You could park cars like that on a 2 percent grade!  No prob, Bob!  Remember building those trucks as part of the kit?  And those truck springs flying off into orbit around Pluto?  You learned quickly to put a piece of thread through it first.  Oh boy those were the days.