Turnouts?

[johnpr3]

Hey all,
My son and I are real, real new to Model Trains. We got a starter set and then we got a bunch of extra track after the standard circle got a bit old. We are trying to put a oval inside an oval. We have 3 rt turnouts and 2 Lf turnouts 25 curves 15 straights and a bunch of odd sizes. I cant figure out how to put the turnouts together to make it work. Any suggestions?? I realize this is probably very simple but you got to start somewhere.
Thanks, John

[Jerrys HO]

John

This drawing is made of EZ track and standard (not numbered 4,5,6...) turnouts and 18"radius. More straights are needed.
It will need a 5x8 table to accomplish this.
I hope you needed for the above mentioned track as you did not say.
I did this on anyrail.com. The first 50 pieces are free to play around with for the full version it's around $50.00.



Jerry

[jbrock27]

Where can one find a 5 x 8 sheet of wood?

[rogertra]

Where can one find a 5 x 8 sheet of wood?

Lumber Yards?

Yes, they do sell them though they are not easy to find.

[jward]

here's another, more compact plan from an old kalmbach layout book, redrawn for ez track.


the overall size is 4 1/2 x 6, the sides can be extended out to 8 feet by adding additional straight track sections.

the extra 6 inches of width over a standard sheet of plywood can be easily added by extending the front with a length of 1x8 plank.

the outer loop is drawn as 22r, but 18r can be substituted by extending xtending the straights 4" at each corner.

as drawn here is a list of components used:

Track & Objects
44501, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44501. Curve radius 18", angle 30º   11
44503, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44503. Curve radius 22", angle 22.5º   16
44511, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44511. Straight 9".   10
44512, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44512. Straight 3".   2
44513, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44513. Straight 2.25".   4
44514, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44514. Straight 4.5".   7
44561, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44561. Left turnout 9". radius 18"  (remote)   2
44562, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44562. Right turnout 9". radius 18"  (remote)   5
44591, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44591. Buffer/Bumper 2.75".   3
44592-2, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44592-2. Straight 1".   3
44592-3, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44592-3. Straight 1.25".   3
44592-5, H0 Bachmann E-Z Track 44592-5. Straight 2".   2

[Doneldon]

Where can one find a 5 x 8 sheet of wood?

jb-

Most lumber yards sell them as ping pong tables.

                                                                -- D

[Joe Satnik]

Dear All,

Table Tennis (Ping Pong = brand name) tables are two pieces 4-1/2' x 5' each that form a 5' x 9' playing surface.   

5' width will accommodate up to a 28" radius track (and roadbed) semi-circle.

4' width will accommodate only up to 22" radius. 

By all means, start out with 5' width if you can.....

Put the table on casters and roll it out from the wall for maintenance or to reach derailments.

You could probably find used tables for a very reasonable price on Craig's List.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik   

 

[Doneldon]

If you use a five-foot wide table you might want to reserve the middle for scenery
and structures. It is difficult to reach in more that 24" without breaking something
near the edge or even knocking trains to the floor. Or, make an access hole in the
middle where you can pop up when needed.

                                                                      -- D

[johnpr3]

Thanks for all the help!
I actually got something down on the 4x8, 2 main ovals with a rail and a bumper. The woman sold me an extra railer and said I could splice the wires into the speed control. Sound right? Then my only thought is do I need to make sure the wires are going into it correctly and how many of the turnouts can I power into the 1 control or can I splice the red power wires from the turnouts and put just the 1 wire in my power control?
John

[jbrock27]

Thanks for the tip boys on the lumber yard. 
Have not been to an actual lumber yard in a long, long time.  Find myself mostly in Home Depot or Lowes.  Don't recall seeing 5 x 8 sheets of plywood there, but I admit was not looking at the time.  Right now, I  have an 8 x 8 "L" shaped layout which is 4ft wide at the 2 ends of the L.     

[Doneldon]

Right now, I  have an 8 x 8 "L" shaped layout which is 4ft wide at the 2 ends of the L.     

jb-

This is a great arrangement. It gives you many degrees of freedom
for track planning, including a giant figure eight which crosses near
the "concave" angle where the two panels meet.                         

                                                                             -- D

[jbrock27]

Agree!
It actually has worked pretty well and you are correct, there is an over/under bridge arrangement I have laid out with the assistance of my son, who suggested I put 2 AHM trestle bridges together (remember that incline I mentioned with regard to my Bachmann FTA?)  It was a great idea he had.
I have one track that is part of the main run, go under one trestle.  the other trestle has a "spur" #4 switch that runs under it and branches to 2 straight lines with lighted bumpers to hold cars.
For better or for worse, it is my father who dictated the size, bc it is actually in his basement (my house is a raised ranch with a finished basement and does not have the room for a layout.)   I do have a "test track" on a board I have on my bar that I use for working on locos and cars,  My dad would only permit adding a 4 x 4 board to the existing (which was the original layout)  4 x 8 sheet.  Problem is, the original 4 x 8 sheet is particle board (a poor choice in the end) and has warped over time and there are spots you can see the track has dipped here and there.  I was contemplating replacing the original board with either another 4 x 8 sheet of plywood this time or maybe even a 5 x 8?
I still use brass snap track.  I had not been a problem for me.  Plus, I have enough of it, it is not problem when I need to custom cut a piece to fit.  Had been using a hacksaw for this, but got a DREMEL for X-mas, which may work better to do that, among other uses.   

[Joe Satnik]

Dear All,

In my local Menard's, over-sized sheets of various materials are 4'x9'.

Back to 4'x8'.

I previously drew up a few patterns to cut and splice a 4'x8' sheet into a 5'x 9' ring (frame?) with 16" wide sides and a 28" x 76" hole in the center.

Scroll down:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,11785.45.html

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

   

[Doneldon]

my house is a raised ranch with a finished basement and does not have the room for a layout

Problem is, the original 4 x 8 sheet is particle board (a poor choice in the end) and has warped over time and there are spots you can see the track has dipped here and there.  I was contemplating replacing the original board with either another 4 x 8 sheet of plywood this time or maybe even a 5 x 8?

when I need to custom cut a piece to fit.  Had been using a hacksaw for this, but got a DREMEL for X-mas, which may work better to do that, among other uses.  

jb-

I'm sorry to hear that you must move soon. Make sure that you find a great layout space with a nice house upstairs. And ... always get a commitment from the General Manager for train space before you need it or there is any competition for the space. Politics is another of the fascinating aspects of model railroading, and possibly the most challenging one. If the GM isn't open to moving, play hurt and depressed and then strike a deal for an around-the-room layout which will, of course, hardly be noticeable and besides the kids will love it. And they can learn so much, from patience and fine motor skills to the rudiments of electricity, carpentry and spacial relationships. Etc. You can't go wrong if you bring the kids into the equation.

You're right about particle board. It has many drawbacks including warpage, dissolving in damp environments, can't be nailed and many others. Plywood is very good because it has none of those disadvantages, at least if it's framed correctly. Correctly, by the way, doesn't mean heavy duty. You can build a perfectly sound train surface with a 1x3 frame, 1x3 crosspieces on their sides every 16"-24", and a piece of 2" extruded foam insulation. I always suggest putting a 1x1 mill piece or a 1x2 across at the ends so they are supported well. You can use plywood if you prefer. Just screw directly into it from your frame and put cross pieces in on 12" to 24" centers, depending on how thick the plywood is. You can also use a piece of plywood on the bottom, 3/8" will do, and put your rigid foam on top of that. The foam will let you put things below track level, like a water feature, trackside ditches or an industry which uses gravity like a coal yard. The key is, you don't have to go heavy to go strong.

You'll find that your Dremel does a great job of cutting rails. You'll have clean, right-angle cuts which will require very little dressing up with a file. I can honestly say that I have never gone to my workbench to do railroading projects without using my Dremel. I even have a cheapie battery motor tool from Harbor Freight which I keep in a separate model tool box for working on things in my TV chair.

                                                                                                                                                                      -- D

[jbrock27]

Not moving D.
I live at one location and my folks live at another.