Installing Sound for Beginners, Like me!

[jonathan]

OK, Matt (BestSnowMan) got my juices flowing about documenting a sound project.  This will by my first time, so beginners unite and let's learn this together.

OK Step One:  start reading.  I've read all the manuals and information pages from Digitrax, Soundtraxx, NCE and Bachmann.  If you're a beginner, it's OK to make mistakes, but an education will certainly help you make better informed decisions.

Step Two: Select a Locomotive and a sound system for your locomotive.  I will choose my C&O 2-8-4 Kanawha for my first install.  Why?  First, it's a great running locomotive, both in DCC and DC.  Second, it seems pretty user-friendly for a sound system:  there's a prepared spot for a 1" speaker.  Since the loco is already DCC there's an 8-pin socket.  So, if everything is wired to NMRA standards and colors, should be easier to do the job right.  



For the sound system, I ended up choosing the Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 for Heavy Steam.  I have some ideas about sticking with one system.  Since my Connie already has the Tsunami...  I considered the Digitrax, which requires buying a decoder and sound bug add-on.  It seems more economical (a little).  Well, my LHS Dealer threw in the speaker for free, so I ended up with the Tsunami.



For now I'm reading the install manual provided on line, taking notes and gathering my tools.  I will provide updates as I complete each step:

3. Gathering tools and materials

4. Testing the electronics

5. Connect plug and speaker to the decoder.

6. Install Speaker

7. Plug in decoder and test the system.

8.  Anything else I haven't thought of.

If there is an interest, I'll see this through to the end on the forum.  If not, I'll pull the thread, no harm done.  Either way, I'm going to try this. Will ask questions, if I get stuck.  My plan is to complete a step each day.

Regards,

Jonathan

[BestSnowman]

I'm interested in seeing this through, I have a Bachmann Pere Marquette 2-8-4 that I've always wanted to put sound in but never allocated the budget to getting the sound decoder but had the same Soundtraxx decoder on my wishlist for it.

I would be very interested in seeing how difficult it is to install sound in one of these sound ready 2-8-4s

[jonathan]

Matt,

Glad to have you along.  The expense is just one reason I have not persued DCC, let alone sound.

Well, I have been saving a Xmas gift card for something special.  This is it...

OK, step three has begun.  Here are a few of the tools/materials I will need:



Soldering materials, shrink tubing, hot air gun, multimeter (most important, maybe), silicon sealer (for the speaker I think), assorted small modeling tools... but one thing is missing.  I need an 8-pin plug in which to solder the decoder.



This is my 0-8-0 (former 2-8-0).  It has been running faithfully on our club's modular layout throughout the year. Time to let it come home and play DC for a while. I shortened it for mining duties. I can use the plug off the stock decoder.  The beauty of it is, I can still use the decoder for hardwiring a diesel one day.  Well, that's my plan.  If it doesn't work, there's always hardwiring the decoder in the Berk.

Regards,

Jonathan

[uncbob]

I did my 2-8-4
Make sure if you bypass the Bachman socket and go straight to the wiring that you add the resistors to the lights or you will burn them out like I did

[jonathan]

Thanks for the tip, Uncbob.  I would not have thought of that, until I fried my first headlight. My plan is to use a plug, and keep the board in place.  I do have a stash of 650ohm resistors, and a couple of LEDs, just in case.

To complete step three (gathering tools and parts),  I have harvested the plug from the decoder out of my 0-8-0 as mentioned in my previous post:



As you can see, it is pretty easy to determine if the colored wires correspond to their correct pin location.  It appears they do, according to the instructions:

1=orange
2=yellow
3= nada
4=black
5=gray
6=white
7=blue
8=red
So far so good.

Stripping tiny wires is always fun:


The Stock Bachmann decoder is being stored for a future project.



Now we've gathered all our needed parts and tools.  The next installment will be step four; testing the electronics.

As an aside, I got my multimeter at Harbor Freight for free, using a coupon on line.  Free is good.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Tedshere]

Hey Jonathan,
    I'll tag along too if you don't mind. I'm really new at the hobby and just starting to learn a little bit about DCC in general. Probably be a while before I transition, but like to know what I'm getting involved in before I plunge.
    I'll be looking for future posts, Thanks!!
    Ted

[jonathan]

Thanks, Ted.

I have been at this for about 5 years.  I really took my time getting to this point. I have this obsession with two.  Since I have one sound loco, I must have two.  I beilieve I have some weird strain of OCD.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Step Four

Time to test the wiring in the tender.  I have to say all electrical instructions are vague at best. This is true for the Tsunami installation manual and the multimeter instructions. Let's muddle through somehow.

To get the tender separated, I like to use two small screwdrivers to pull the plugs... to avoid doing any damage:


This model has fours screws, in each corner, to open the tender:


Pulling the dummy plugs:


But which hole is #1? There is an "8" on the board next to one of the holes.  I see no other indications so let's go with that. Hope I'm right.


Again vague instructions made me use all the settings on the meter, but I'm guessing 20v DC is the proper setting:


You are told to test a series of holes, looking for any reaction out of the meter:

OK, done, I guess...

While we're in here, let's get a look at the speaker receptacle,  You have to remove four screws to get at the speaker slot:



Ta DA!


1" speaker fits well:


Notice the lip on the speaker face.  Perhaps this is where we add a little silicon gel to secure the speaker.  I'm going to think about that one


In the mean time, I'm ready for a little soldering.  Will check in soon.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Step Five

Soldering the wires and speakers.

Prestaged, shrink tubing:



Tinned all the wires:



Heat applied to shrink tubing, once the wires were soldered together:



Speaker went on last:

The instructions say to use the two purple wires for the speakers.  Apparently polarity does not matter, unless you plan to use more than one speaker.

Decoder and speaker back in the plastic, waiting for the next step:



Question Time:  What's the best way to secure the speaker?  I was going to put a thin layer on the lip of the speaker (silicon) and just lay it in there.  What's the right way?

Oh, and once everything is installed, how do you secure the decoder itself?

Regards,

Jonathan

Addendum:  I should mention I am partially color blind.  The extra function, brown and green wires almost threw me off in a bad direction.  Cuidado!

[BestSnowman]

There is a handy pin guide for the 8-pin plug: http://www.dccwiki.com/NMRA_DCC_Plug

Based on your close up image the pin alignments should be this:

8 7 6 5
1 2 3 4

As long as you have the decoder wired up to the plug correctly the plug can be installed the wrong way and not release the magic smoke. You will know it's in backwards because the lights don't work. Additionally since #3 is the dummy plug if you can verify that pin on the board has no traces to it that would also confirm the orientation.

[uncbob]

On otherwebsites boards it was stated if you use the 8 pin plug on the Bachmann **you have to bypass some components on the board ( cut them out )**

In fact that was covered on this board on previous threads about adding sound to Bachmann streamers
You might want to search

So I didn't use the board 8 pin socket --I took the board out and went right to the wires in the harness but as I stated you need resistors or the lights will burn out

[jonathan]

Matt,

Thanks.  I agree with your assessment.  It would appear I figured out the socket orientation.

Uncbob.  Thanks, also. I have read those previous threads.  It seems to come down to the C1 and C2 capacitors that might inhibit smooth running of the locomotive.  The capacitors on this board are not the yellow, pill shaped doodads I'm use to.  They are newer style components that sit down flatter on the board.  Not sure how to cut them out.  Perhaps I just need to mangle 'em with a wire cutter.  We'll see how it runs before I start cutting out parts.  Will watch for that during testing.

Regards,

Jonathan

[richg]

Matt,

Thanks.  I agree with your assessment.  It would appear I figured out the socket orientation.

Uncbob.  Thanks, also. I have read those previous threads.  It seems to come down to the C1 and C2 capacitors that might inhibit smooth running of the locomotive.  The capacitors on this board are not the yellow, pill shaped doodads I'm use to.  They are newer style components that sit down flatter on the board.  Not sure how to cut them out.  Perhaps I just need to mangle 'em with a wire cutter.  We'll see how it runs before I start cutting out parts.  Will watch for that during testing.

Regards,

Jonathan

I use a small pair of wire cutters, the 4 inch size. The SMT caps snip off very easily. Unsoldering is not needed.

My new Spectrum 4-6-0 with Tsunami on board has five SMT caps. I removed the caps anyway. Probably do not have to but I had opened up the tender to see what the factory sound install is like.

Rich

[jonathan]

Thanks, Rich.  As always you have some great info to share.

OK I have good news and bad news.  First the good stuff.

I found some sealant that goes on white and dries clear.  This is very handy to be able to see against the dark speaker.  I will be able to tell if I get any goo on the speaker.

Going to apply it with a sharpended toothpick:







When I inserted the speaker, I also laid down a bead around the top edge to help hold it in place and prevent unwanted vibration.



Then I cleaned up my mess



Plugging in the decoder:



What do I do with all this mess?



This tape will hold it for a while while I begin testing:



Now the bad news!

I have sound but no movement.  If I put the loco in reverse and turn the throttle up I get 10 flashes in the reverse light.  Here's a video of the symptom:



I'm going to start searching through the instructions, but does anyone know what the flashes mean?

Regards,

Jonathan

[richg]

That is a motor control error. I will look around as I had it happen to me about a year ago.

Rich